Toyota RAV4 Door Replacement Cost (Real Prices By Scenario)

If you want the fast number, I usually see a Toyota RAV4 door replacement land between $600 and $3,500 installed.

The low end is a used door swap with little or no paint work. The high end is a new OEM door shell plus paint, plus blending into adjacent panels.

I look at door jobs in 3 buckets.

Repair only. Repair and repaint. Replace the door.

Toyota RAV4 Door Replacement Cost

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Toyota RAV4 Door Replacement Cost (Quick Answer)

For most RAV4s, I see $150 to $500 for paintless dent repair, $500 to $1,500 for repair plus repaint, and $1,800 to $4,000 for a full door replacement with paint and blending.

If you want one planning number for a replaced and painted door, I budget $2,500.

Typical Installed Cost Range (Parts + Labor + Paint)

Repair Only (No Paint)

• $150 to $500
• This is usually paintless dent repair on small dings where the paint is still intact.

Replace Door Shell And Paint

• $1,800 to $3,800
• This is the common “replace the outer structure, transfer the parts, then paint” scenario.
• Blending can push it higher.

Replace Complete Door Assembly And Paint

• $2,200 to $4,000
• This happens when you replace more of the door as a unit.
• Cost climbs fast if the replacement door still needs paint and blending.

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Hero Asset Summary Table (Best Snippet Asset)

Repair Path	Typical Total Cost	Parts Cost Range	Paint And Blend Range	When This Option Makes Sense
PDR Or Dent Repair (No Paint)	$150 to $500	$0	$0	Door has a ding. Paint is not cracked.
Repair + Repaint Door	$500 to $1,500	$0 to $150	$300 to $1,500	Paint is damaged, but the door still fits and shuts clean.
Door Skin Replacement + Paint	$1,200 to $2,800	$150 to $950	$800 to $2,200	Outer skin is creased, inner shell is ok. Not every shop does this.
Door Shell Replacement + Paint	$1,800 to $3,800	$600 to $950	$800 to $2,500	Door is bent or creased at edges. The shell is faster than heavy repair.
Used Door Assembly Swap (Color Matched)	$600 to $1,800	$200 to $1,000	$0 to $800	You find the same color door. Paint match is close enough to skip blending.
New OEM Door Shell + Paint + Blend	$2,400 to $4,000+	$610 to $875	$1,200 to $3,000	You want OEM fit. You need a clean paint match. Blend is required.

Quick Verdict List

• If the door opens, closes, and latches with even gaps, I try repair first.
• If the door edge is creased near the hinge side, I expect replacement more often.
• If the paint is damaged, I assume at least $300 to $1,000 for paint work.
• If the shop plans to blend the fender or quarter panel, I plan for a bigger bill.
• If I can find a used door in the same color, I ask the shop if we can install it without blending.

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What “Door Replacement” Means On A RAV4

When someone says “replace the door,” I stop them and ask one question.

Do you mean the skin, the shell, or the whole assembly?

Those are 3 different jobs. They can be 3 different invoices.

Door Skin Vs Door Shell Vs Complete Door Assembly

Door Skin
This is the outer panel you see from the outside. Think of it like the door’s “face.”

If the door is dented but the inner structure is still straight, some shops can replace the skin instead of the whole door.

Door Shell
This is the door’s structure. It includes the inner frame and safety beam area.

If the shell is bent, the door can stop fitting right. That is when replacement becomes more common.

Complete Door Assembly
This is the “door as a unit.” It can include the shell plus many parts already installed.

A complete assembly can save labor. It depends on what comes with it.

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What Usually Comes With Each Option

Here’s how I think about “what you are buying.”

Bare Door Shell

• No glass
• No regulator
• No wiring harness
• No door handle
• No mirror
• No trim panel
• No speaker

Door Shell With Some Parts

• Often includes the shell and skin as one piece
• Sometimes includes glass
• Sometimes includes weatherstrips
• Often still missing wiring and most bolt-on parts

Complete Door Assembly

• Shell with glass installed
• Window regulator and motor
• Wiring harness and connectors
• Door latch and handle hardware
• Sometimes mirror and trim panel, sometimes not

My rule is simple.

I never assume.

I ask the parts seller to list what is included, line by line.

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Why Body Shops Often Prefer One Option Over Another

I see shops choose the path that hits 3 goals.

Fit. Time. Paint workflow.

Door Repair

• Best when the door shuts clean and gaps are even.
• No parts sourcing delay.
• Less risk of a used door having hidden rust or prior repairs.

Door Skin Replacement

• Can work when the outer panel is creased but the inner shell is straight.
• Labor can climb fast because the skin needs bonding, sealing, and precise alignment.
• Not every shop wants to do it.

Door Shell Replacement

• Often faster than heavy repair when the structure is bent.
• Usually more predictable for alignment.
• Paint work can increase because edges and jamb areas may need attention.

Complete Door Assembly Replacement

• Can be the fastest mechanical swap if the assembly is truly complete.
• Can be the cheapest path if you find a color-matched used door.
• Can still get expensive if the door needs paint, blending, or sensor transfers.

Why Your Quote Can Be $600 Or $3,500

I can get 2 quotes for the same RAV4 door and see a $2,000 spread.

That happens when one shop is pricing a basic swap and the other is pricing paint, blending, and transfers.

Top 7 Cost Drivers I Check First

• Front door vs rear door
• Repair vs replace (skin vs shell vs assembly)
• New OEM vs aftermarket vs used
• Paint type (solid vs metallic vs pearl)
• Number of blend panels (0, 1, or 2)
• Electronics inside the door (mirror, harness, sensors)
• Hidden damage (hinges, pillar, latch alignment)

Door Location And Type

Front doors often have more stuff attached.

Mirrors. More wiring. Smart key sensors on many trims.

Rear doors can be simpler, but paint and blending can still dominate the total.

And one big note.

A liftgate is not a door job. It is a different panel, different labor, and often different parts pricing.

OEM Vs Aftermarket Vs Used

This is where the parts line swings.

OEM (New)

• Best odds of fit and corrosion protection matching factory standards.
• Highest price on the parts line.

Aftermarket (New)

• Can be cheaper.
• Fit can be hit or miss.
• I ask about return policy before anyone paints it.

Used (Salvage)

• Biggest savings potential.
• Also the biggest variance in condition.
• I look for rust, prior filler, and bent edges.

If you want the lowest number, used wins.

If you want the lowest risk, OEM usually wins.

Paint And Blend Requirements

Paint is where “cheap door” turns into “big invoice.”

A door repaint can run from a few hundred dollars to well over $1,000 depending on paint type and labor rates.

Blending is the multiplier.

If the shop blends into the fender or quarter panel, you are paying for extra prep, extra materials, and extra booth time.

Metallic and pearl paints raise the odds of blending because an exact match is harder.

If I want a fast estimate, I use this rule.

Each blended adjacent panel can add hundreds of dollars.

Two blend panels can add four figures in some areas.

Electronics And Hardware Inside The Door

This is the part most people forget.

Doors are not “just metal.”

Common items that add cost on a RAV4:

• Mirror assembly
• Blind spot monitor hardware in the mirror on many trims
• Heated mirror wiring on many trims
• Speakers
• Window regulator and motor
• Wiring harness inside the door
• Smart key sensor in the front door handle on many trims

If your replacement door is a bare shell, all of that has to be transferred.

Transfer labor can be the difference between a $900 job and a $2,400 job.

Hidden Damage That Changes Everything

Hidden damage is what turns a door replacement into a bigger collision repair.

I look for these issues:

Hinges
If a hinge is bent, the door can sag. The gaps change. Wind noise starts.

Latch Pillar And Striker
If the striker area is off, the door might “close” but not seal right.

Intrusion Beam Area
This is a safety structure inside the door. If it is damaged, repair rules change fast.

Alignment And Gaps
If the door gap is uneven at the fender or quarter, I assume there is more going on than skin damage.

If the shop says “we will know once it’s apart,” that is normal.

That is also why I ask for a supplement plan in writing, especially on insurance jobs.

Cost Breakdown By Repair Option (The Money Section)

When I price a RAV4 door job, I pick the repair path first.

Then I price parts. Then paint. Then blending.

Here are the 5 paths I see most.

Repair Only (PDR, Minor Dent Work)

What You Typically Pay

• $75 to $300 for small door dings
• $150 to $500 for larger dents with paint still intact
• $500+ if it’s deep, on a body line, or hard to access

What’s Included

• Metal reshaping from behind the panel
• No filler
• No repaint

What Gets Reused

• Everything
• No parts replaced

What Triggers Blending

• Nothing
• If paint is cracked, PDR is usually off the table

Repair + Repaint (No Replacement)

What You Typically Pay

• $500 to $1,500 for door repair plus repaint
• Higher if the dent is large or on an edge

What’s Included

• Body work (fill, sand, reshape)
• Prime, basecoat, clearcoat
• Reinstall handles and trim as needed

What Gets Reused

• Door shell
• Glass
• Regulator
• Wiring
• Mirror
• Trim panel

What Triggers Blending

• Metallic, pearl, or tri-coat colors
• Visible color mismatch risk
• Sun-faded paint on the rest of the car
• Dark colors where a hard edge stands out

Door Skin Replacement (Reskin)

This is not the same as replacing the whole door.

You replace the outer skin and keep the inner structure.

What You Typically Pay

• $1,200 to $2,800 installed and painted

What’s Included

• New outer skin
• Bonding or welding (shop dependent)
• Seam sealing
• Full repaint of the door

What Gets Reused

• Inner shell structure
• Glass
• Regulator
• Wiring
• Mirror
• Trim panel
• Latch and handle hardware

What Triggers Blending

• Most shops still blend with metallic and pearl paints
• Blend is more likely if the door is next to a sun-faded fender or quarter

Door Shell Replacement

This is the “door structure” replacement.

It’s common when the door edge is creased, the shell is bent, or gaps are off.

What You Typically Pay

• $1,800 to $3,800 installed and painted
• Higher if 2 panels are blended

What’s Included

• New or used door shell
• Transfer of internal parts from your old door
• Full repaint of the door
• Blend into adjacent panels when needed

What Gets Reused

• Glass
• Regulator and motor
• Wiring harness
• Mirror (if not included with the door)
• Handle and latch hardware
• Speaker
• Trim panel
• Weatherstrips (sometimes reused, sometimes replaced)

What Triggers Blending

• New paint next to old paint
• Metallic and pearl colors
• When the shop can’t “hide” the match on the door edge
• When the estimator writes a blend line for fender or quarter

Complete Door Assembly Replacement

This is where the savings can happen.

But only if the door is truly complete and the paint match is close.

What You Typically Pay

• $600 to $1,800 for a used color-matched swap with minimal paint work
• $2,200 to $4,000 if it still needs paint and blending

What’s Included

• Used door assembly (varies a lot by listing)
• Install
• Transfer parts that are missing
• Paint and blend only if needed

What Gets Reused

• Any missing parts on the used door
• Common transfers: mirror, wiring, trim panel, latch parts

What Triggers Blending

• Color mismatch in sunlight
• Pearl and metallic colors
• Different build plant paint variance
• A used door with clearcoat fade

RAV4 Parts Price Benchmarks (By Model Year And Door)

I separate parts into 2 categories.

Door shell pricing, and everything that bolts to it.

A door shell is usually the big number people miss. It is also usually a bare structure.

Taxes and shipping can add a lot. So I treat these as anchors, not exact totals.

Gen 5 (2019 To Present) Parts Pricing Anchors

Front Door Shell (OEM)

• MSRP I see most often: about $875
• Discounted online pricing I see often: about $584 to $611

Rear Door Shell (OEM)

• MSRP I see often: about $786 to $849
• Discounted online pricing varies a lot by seller

Here’s what that means in plain terms.

A new OEM Gen 5 door shell is often a $600 to $900 part before shipping.

That is before paint. That is before labor.

Gen 4 (2013 To 2018) What Changes

Gen 4 shells tend to price higher at MSRP in the catalogs I see.

Front Door Shell (OEM)

• MSRP I see most often: about $954
• Discounted online pricing I see often: about $636 to $665

Rear Door Shell (OEM)

• MSRP I see often: about $846 to $872
• Discounted online pricing I see often: about $585 range on some listings

The big difference is used supply.

Gen 4 has more used doors available. That can cut the parts line fast.

Used Door Pricing Reality

If you’re trying to hit the lowest total cost, used is usually the move.

This is the real used door math I use.

Used Door (Salvage)

• $200 to $800 is a common range for the door itself
• Shipping can add $150 to $300 if it’s freight
• Local pickup can save that freight money

I also watch out for hidden costs.

• Rust at the bottom seam
• Old body filler
• Bent edges that look “fine” in photos
• Wrong trim holes or molding style

If I buy used, I try to buy the same color code.

That can reduce paint work. Sometimes it even avoids blending.

What A “Complete Door” Listing Usually Does And Does Not Include

This is where people get burned.

A listing can say “door assembly” and still be missing half the parts.

Before I buy, I ask for a checklist.

Confirm What’s Included

• Door shell
• Door glass
• Window regulator and motor
• Wiring harness inside the door
• Latch and lock hardware
• Exterior handle
• Side mirror
• Interior trim panel
• Weatherstrips

What’s Commonly Missing

• Mirror
• Interior trim panel
• Wiring harness
• Regulator and motor
• Speakers
• Small clips and seals

My quick rule is simple.

If the used door is bare, it is a shell job. Not a complete swap.

If it’s truly complete and color matched, it can be the cheapest safe path.

Labor And Paint (The Hidden Cost Most Pages Underplay)

If you only price the door shell, you will get surprised.

Labor and paint are usually the biggest line items on the estimate.

Labor Hours That Drive Total Cost

I split door labor into 3 buckets.

• Hang and align the door
• Transfer parts from the old door
• R and I for trim, glass, and regulators

A simple door swap can be quick in hands-on time.

I often see around 2 hours just to install a replacement door when it is straightforward.

But “straightforward” is not most real quotes.

Transfer Work That Adds Hours Fast

• Door glass R and I
• Window regulator and motor R and I
• Wiring harness transfers
• Mirror swap and mirror calibration features
• Door latch, handle, and lock cylinder work

Here’s a real estimate mindset I use.

If the replacement door is a bare shell, expect more transfer labor.

If the replacement door is a complete assembly, transfer labor can drop.

One more line item people miss.

Pre and post repair scanning.

Toyota has position statements that call for a health check scan before and after collision repairs. Shops often bill this as a separate line.

Paint And Materials Benchmarks

Paint is not just “spray it.”

It is prep, mask, mix, spray, and cure.

For cost planning, I use these anchors.

• Section repaint: $300 to $800
• Full panel or door repaint: $800 to $1,500+
• Spot repairs can be cheaper, but they are not always invisible in sunlight

Paint also stacks with disassembly.

If the shop has to remove moldings, handles, mirrors, and belt trims to paint correctly, labor climbs.

Blending Adjacent Panels

Blending is what turns a “door paint” job into a “door plus fender” job.

Blending means the shop sprays color into the next panel to make the match look natural.

When Blending Is Required

• Metallic paint
• Pearl or tri-coat paint
• Sun-faded original paint
• A new door shell next to older paint
• High contrast colors where edges show

How It Changes The Total

Blending adds more than you think.

There are extra steps.

More masking. More prep. More spray time. More clearcoat work.

And there is real industry research showing blend time can take more time than a full refinish, on average.

My quick rule is simple.

If your estimate has 1 or 2 blend panels, plan for a bigger jump than the door shell price alone suggests.

Insurance Vs Paying Cash

I decide this with math, not vibes.

I compare the estimate to my deductible, then I think about the paperwork and the long-term cost.

Deductible Math

Most people I talk to have a $500 deductible.

$250 and $1,000 are also common.

Here is how I run the numbers.

Example

• Body shop estimate: $2,800
• Your collision deductible: $500
• Insurance pays: $2,300
• You pay: $500

If the repair total is close to your deductible, filing a claim often does not help much.

If the repair total is far above your deductible, a claim can make sense fast.

OEM Parts Clauses And What To Ask

This is the part that can change your door parts quality.

Many policies let insurers specify aftermarket, used, or remanufactured parts on repairs.

Some policies offer an OEM endorsement, but it depends on the insurer and policy.

I ask these questions before I approve anything.

Questions I Ask The Adjuster And The Shop

• Will you pay for OEM parts on this repair?
• If not, which parts will be aftermarket or used?
• If I want OEM, how much is the price difference?
• Will the estimate label non-OEM parts clearly?
• Is there an OEM endorsement option on my policy for the future?

My personal rule.

If my RAV4 is newer and I plan to keep it, I push harder for OEM fit on major panels like doors.

When A Claim Makes Sense (Simple Threshold Rules)

These are the rules I actually use.

File A Claim When

• The estimate is $1,000 or more above your deductible.
• The damage includes safety systems, side airbags, or major alignment issues.
• The shop expects supplements and hidden damage.
• You need rental coverage and your policy includes it.
• The car is financed or leased and you need repairs documented.

Consider Paying Cash When

• The estimate is within $200 to $400 of your deductible.
• The damage is cosmetic and you can live with it for now.
• You want to avoid a claim on a small repair, especially if you have a clean history.

One more move I like.

Ask the shop for a cash price.

Some shops will price differently if there is no insurance admin time.

I still ask for the same quality.

Same parts type. Same paint process. Same warranty.

How To Get The Lowest Cost Without A Bad Repair

I chase the lowest total. But I do it with controls.

My goal is simple. Save money without buying a door that leaks, whistles, or rusts in 18 months.

Get Three Estimates And Compare The Same Line Items

I always get 3 estimates.

Then I compare line by line, not just the total.

Here’s the checklist I use so the quotes are apples to apples.

• Repair path: repair, reskin, shell, or full assembly
• Parts type: OEM new, aftermarket new, or used
• Paint scope: paint door only, or paint plus blend panels
• Transfer labor: what gets moved over from the old door
• Scans: pre-scan and post-scan listed or not listed
• Corrosion protection: seam sealer and cavity wax included or not
• Warranty: written terms, not “we stand by it”

If one quote is $1,200 lower, it is usually because something is missing from the line items.

The Color-Matched Used Door Strategy

This is the cheapest safe path I see most often.

Buy a used door in the same paint code. Install it. Skip paint and blending if the match is close.

When It Saves Money

It saves money when you avoid paint.

A single door repaint can run $800 to $1,500+.

Blending into the fender or quarter can add even more.

So if you can install a used door that matches in sunlight, you can save $1,000 to $2,500 fast.

My process is basic.

• I find my Toyota paint code on the driver door jamb label.
• I shop used doors by that code.
• I ask for photos in sunlight, not indoor lighting.
• I check the bottom seam for rust before the shop installs it.

When It Backfires

I have seen the used door plan fail for 4 reasons.

• Color mismatch. Sun fade is real. Even the right paint code can look off.
• Hidden damage. Bent edges and old filler show up after install.
• Missing parts. A “door assembly” might still be missing harness, trim, mirror, or regulator.
• Shipping damage. Freight can bend corners or scratch the skin.

Here’s the detail that matters.

Recycled door assemblies often include things like door glass, latch, regulators, and outside handle.

They may or may not include interior trim panels, wire harness, or moldings.

So I budget for transfer labor unless the listing proves the door is complete.

Ask For This On Every Quote

This is the part that protects you long-term.

I want proof the door fits, seals, and will not rust.

Here’s what I ask for.

Door Gaps

• I ask the shop to confirm even gaps at the fender and quarter.
• I ask them to confirm the door closes with normal effort.
• I ask them to confirm the window frame meets the weatherstrip evenly.

Water Test

• I ask for a water leak test after install.
• I want it done before I pick up the car.
• I want it done after any trim and vapor barrier work.

Corrosion Protection

• I ask the shop to restore seam sealer and cavity wax inside the repaired or replaced door areas.
• If metal was welded, I ask what primer process they use before welding.

Warranty

• I ask for the warranty in writing.
• Many shops offer a lifetime workmanship warranty, but it is often tied to how long you own the vehicle.
• I also ask what the paint warranty covers, like peeling, cracking, or excessive fading.

If a shop gets defensive about any of this, I move on.

DIY Or Body Shop (What I Would And Would Not Do)

I do some door work myself.

But I draw a hard line on paint and structure.

DIY Door Swap (Complete Door Assembly)

DIY can work if you buy a complete used door assembly.

It works best when it is color matched and already has glass and the regulator installed.

This is the DIY path I consider realistic.

• Buy a used door in the same paint code.
• Keep your original door until the replacement is test-fitted.
• Swap over any missing items, like mirror, trim panel, harness, or speaker.
• Align the door so it latches clean and the gaps look even.
• Verify window operation, locks, and mirror functions.
• Drive at 60 mph and listen for wind noise.
• Check for water intrusion after a car wash.

If the replacement door is bare, DIY gets harder fast.

That becomes a transfer job, not just a swap.

What I Avoid DIY

I avoid anything that can turn into a comeback.

Paint Blending
Blending is skill work. It is also tool-heavy. I leave it to a paint booth.

Reskin Work
Door skin replacement needs bonding, sealing, and alignment. One mistake shows forever.

Structural Alignment
If the pillar, hinges, or striker area is off, I want a shop with measuring tools.

Corrosion Protection Steps
If I can’t restore seam sealer and cavity wax correctly, I do not want to own that rust risk.

Tool And Time Reality Check

I plan for time like this.

• Experienced shop install time can be around 2 hours for a straightforward door replacement.
• My first-time DIY plan is 3 to 6 hours with a helper.
• My repeat DIY plan is 2 to 4 hours if the door is complete.

Tools I consider baseline.

• Ratchet and socket set
• Extensions and a breaker bar
• Trim removal tools
• Torque wrench
• Painter’s tape and a marker for hinge outline marks
• A helper for lifting and holding the door

One more reality check.

Modern doors have wiring and sensors. If you are not comfortable unplugging connectors and testing functions, pay a shop. That money is cheaper than chasing electrical issues later.

RAV4 Door Estimate Decoder

I use this like a checklist. It keeps me from approving a vague estimate.

RAV4 Door Estimate Decoder (Line-Item Template)

If the shop can itemize it like this, I trust the quote more.

Parts

• Door Skin Or Door Shell Or Complete Door Assembly: $____
• Hardware And Clips: $____
• Weatherstrips And Seals: $____
• Mirror (If Needed): $____
• Window Regulator Or Motor (If Needed): $____
• Wiring Harness (If Needed): $____
• Door Handle Or Lock Parts (If Needed): $____

Labor

• Remove And Install Door: $____
• Transfer Parts From Old Door: $____
• Align Door And Check Gaps: $____
• Pre-Repair Scan: $____
• Post-Repair Scan: $____
• Calibrations (If Any): $____
• Water Leak Test: $____
• Corrosion Protection Steps: $____

Paint And Materials

• Refinish Door: $____
• Blend Fender (If Needed): $____
• Blend Quarter Panel (If Needed): $____
• Paint Materials: $____

Fees And Tax

• Shop Supplies Fee: $____
• Disposal Or Environmental Fee: $____
• Tax: $____

Out-The-Door Total: $____

My 60-Second Sanity Check

• The estimate says OEM, aftermarket, or used. Not just “door.”
• The estimate lists paint scope. Door only, or door plus blend panels.
• The estimate lists scanning lines if it is a collision job.
• The estimate includes transfer labor if the part is a bare shell.
• The estimate includes corrosion protection steps if metal work is involved.
• The estimate includes a water leak test. Especially if trim or vapor barriers were disturbed.

RAV4 Door Transfer Checklist

I ask the shop to confirm each one. I do not assume a used door has everything.

• Door Glass
• Window Regulator
• Window Motor
• Door Wiring Harness
• Mirror Assembly
• Mirror Options (Heat, Blind Spot, Camera If Equipped)
• Exterior Door Handle
• Smart Key Sensor In Handle (If Equipped)
• Door Latch And Striker Hardware
• Lock Cylinder (If Equipped)
• Speaker
• Interior Trim Panel
• Weatherstrips And Belt Moldings
• Vapor Barrier Behind The Door Panel
• Clips And Fasteners

12 Questions I Ask A Body Shop Before Approving The Work

1. Are you repairing, reskinning, replacing the shell, or swapping a complete door?
2. Is the replacement part OEM, aftermarket, or used?
3. If it is used, what is included with the door? Glass, regulator, harness, trim?
4. What paint work is included? Door only, or blending into adjacent panels?
5. What paint type is this color? Solid, metallic, pearl, or tri-coat?
6. Will you do a pre-scan and post-scan? Will it be listed on the invoice?
7. Will any calibrations be required after the repair?
8. What corrosion protection steps will you apply? Seam sealer and cavity wax?
9. Will you do a water leak test before delivery?
10. What warranty do you offer on workmanship and paint? Get it in writing.
11. Will you document door gaps and alignment checks at delivery?
12. If supplements happen, how will you notify me and update the estimate?

Red Flags That Predict A Bad Repair

• The estimate does not say OEM, aftermarket, or used.
• The estimate does not list paint scope or blend panels.
• The estimate says “door assembly” but has no transfer labor.
• The shop will not confirm a water leak test.
• The shop will not explain corrosion protection steps after metal work.
• The shop refuses to list scans on a collision repair estimate.
• The shop cannot explain why blending is or is not needed.
• The shop will not give a written warranty.
• The shop wants you to approve work without seeing the full line items.

FAQs

How Much Does It Cost To Replace A Toyota RAV4 Door?

I usually see $600 to $3,500 installed, depending on paint and blending. If I need a new OEM door shell plus paint and blend, I budget around $2,500 as a planning number.

Is It Cheaper To Replace The Door Or Repair It?

Repair is usually cheaper if the door fits and shuts clean. I see repair-only work start around $150, and repair plus repaint often land around $500 to $1,500. Replacement is more common when the shell is bent, the edge is creased, or gaps are off.

How Much Does It Cost To Paint A RAV4 Door?

I plan $300 to $800 for smaller paint work, and $800 to $1,500+ for a full door repaint in many markets. Metallic and pearl colors usually push the price higher. Blending adds more.

Do Body Shops Have To Blend Paint Into Other Panels?

Not always. But it is common on metallic and pearl colors. If the shop blends into the fender or quarter panel, the total can jump by hundreds or more per panel. I ask them to explain the blend decision in sunlight terms, not booth terms.

Can I Buy A Used RAV4 Door And Have A Shop Install It?

Yes. This is one of the fastest ways to cut the total. A used door can save you the paint bill if the color match is close. I still budget for transfer labor unless the door is truly complete. I also ask for a water leak test after install.

Does Insurance Cover Door Replacement And Paint?

If you have collision coverage, it usually covers door replacement and paint after an accident, minus your deductible. Parts type can depend on your policy. Some policies allow aftermarket or used parts unless you have an OEM endorsement.

What Is The Difference Between A Door Shell And A Door Assembly?

A door shell is mostly the structure. It is often bare. A door assembly is closer to a complete unit, but listings vary. I confirm if it includes glass, regulator, harness, latch, handle, and trim before I price the job.

Sources

• Lemonade, Car Door Replacement Cost
• J.D. Power, How Much Does It Cost To Replace A Car Door
• CarParts.com, Car Door Replacement Cost Guide
• Armando’s Auto Body, Cost To Repaint A Car Door
• Car And Driver, Average Car Insurance Deductible